“Local is not so lekker or Hey kook, don’t tell me to pull up the handbrake at my ‘local’ spot”

I watched a distasteful scene of ‘local’ intimidation unfold at an infamous surf spot recently. An above average surfer, let’s call him Jack, was subjected to a torrent of verbal abuse by a so-called ‘local’. Jack had committed no infringement, other than drawing some effortless lines across the wave’s face and marking the end of his ride with an impressive fantail of spray. A bewildered Jack was subjected to all the expected profanities and infantile bullyboy tactics. Quite clearly, the enraged ‘local’ had embarked on this journey before, but it was painfully clear that his issues stretched far beyond the lineup. Jack ignored the pitiful display and simply paddled away; I was impressed, and hoped the Neanderthal didn’t have back-up in the form of a club or other tribe members. Unfortunately, this outburst soured what was a beautiful autumn Sunday morning, not only for Jack, but for a fair number of other surfers in audible range of the tirade. It left a bad taste in my mouth that lingered long after I had left the water.

Yes, you’ve heard this tiresome tale before; congested lineups have evolved into stress inducing saltwater equivalents of our urban environments. Sadly, one of nature’s most awesome spectacles of energy will always be the ideal breeding ground for a particular sub-species of surfer; the ‘disrespectful unlocal’ and ‘xenophobic local’. Surfers should see these aberrations as a natural human response to a crowded lineup, and treat them as such. We’ve all seen or experienced the fallout from this particular surfer personality type. He replies to the greetings of fellow watermen with a practiced sullen glare, unless of course they are part of his equally narrow-minded cabal. In some instances he will resort to vitriolic outbursts, malicious damage to property and even physical assault in an attempt to stamp his authority on a stretch of fluid real estate. One would swear he had scales, gills and fins, and only ventured to dry land to ‘settle an issue’ over a drop-in on a 2 foot closeout. In most cases the ‘guilty’ party is physically smaller, younger, less experienced or surfing solo, so ‘justice’ can be carried out swiftly and without too much challenge. These individuals inevitably meet their nemesis, just ask Nat Young, and the resultant violence adds yet another bad note to what was a pretty catchy melody, in an environment where all the cares of the world should be left at the water’s edge for an hour or two.

Considering the growing levels of intolerance in and out of the water, and global popularity of the sport; the concept of a universal surfing brotherhood will soon be relegated to the pages of our sport’s history, or idealized scenes from 16mm neo-hippy surf movies. Surfers need to realise their art form is now mainstream – global surf brands are enticing hordes of surfing converts at the turn of every page of fashion, sports and lifestyle magazines. I’m not here to debate the merits or demerits of the surf industry, but I believe a paradigm shift is required on the part of surfers. Perhaps the retro revolution is a last gasp on the part of the sport to return to the idyllic lineups of yesteryear, where surfers enjoyed a relatively isolated lifestyle, far from the raging currents of commercialism. Ironically, in some instances, localism was as much a sixties and seventies phenomenon as it is today.

Congested beaches lead to congested mindsets; consider the Oscar winning performances of ‘locals’ at beaches such as Llandudno, Glen Beach, Long Beach, the Reserve, Elands Bay, J Bay and New Pier. How many a session has been soured by a minority of mental ingrates whose sense of self importance and entitlement is determined by their geographic proximity to the beach. The policing of a lineup by a select crew of impartial ‘locals’ is a paradox, and is open to abuse, and possible legal consequence. Despite the initial good intentions of such a venture, it’s flawed due to lack of legal recourse or legitimate (by means of law) enforcement. Chastising (verbally, or perhaps by means of a slap, shove or knobkerrie) a wave-hog may have dire consequences for the self-appointed Wave Police in or outside a courtroom. How many judges understand the terms; ‘local’, ‘unlocal’ or the unwritten rules of surfing, and that the policing of ‘bands of energy’ by means of force is justified. The good intentions of an organized group of ‘locals’, evolve speedily, and are often adjusted to serve the selfish needs of select few. Consider the White Shorts, Black Shorts and Bra Boys; all tainted by xenophobic thugs whose sense of entitlement is inexcusable.

The hierarchical nature of an intense lineup, based on experience, age and locale has established a pecking order of sorts that in most cases, is observed. Unfortunately the sheer intensity of 21st Century surfing requires a shift in thinking.

Perhaps it’s time the surf media, surf industry and surfers themselves acted responsibly and made an attempt, however insignificant, to educate all wave-users.
Anyone with a modicum of surf savvy could think of some possible solutions;
- Educate by means of articles and media segments.
- If ‘locals’ are so concerned by mass invasions of ‘their’ spots they could erect signage (in consultation with their local Municipality) reminding visitors and ‘locals’ alike not to litter, and behave like the privileged humans beings that they are by exercising common decency and respect in and out of the water. Involve the ‘local’ municipality, and educate those who will give real clout to your venture.
- A change of scenery often reveals hidden gems. Leave your comfort zone, hit the road and explore our awesome coastline.
- Don’t surf breaks beyond your ability, or paddle out at a heavy spot due to peer pressure. You’re putting yourself and others at danger in an attempt to fuel your ego.
- You too were a grom, kook or beginner at some point, and remember that twenty something paddling machines also grow old, get arthritis and pile on a couple of extra kilos. Smile and acknowledge the presence of other people in the water. A simple greeting or apology (if you’ve dropped in unawares), more often than not, can diffuse a potentially volatile situation. If an enraged Johnny Boy Gomes clone demands satisfaction on the beach, it’s best to paddle away and avoid a violent confrontation. If you are assaulted or any of your property (car, surfboard etc.) is vandalized or maliciously damaged - press charges. Believe it or not, most of these cretins have jobs, in some cases a family, and a public profile that extends beyond the tidal zone. A court case, restraining order or criminal record will do wonders for his popularity, CV and enthusiasm to act like an overgrown playground bully the instant he dons a wetsuit.
- Remember, you don’t influence behaviour by telling people what to do.
You do it by exposing them to enough cases of people behaving well, and that’s what creates a new norm.

As for that bad taste in my mouth, with age comes wisdom, and I’m sure there’s an empty A-frame, within a 40 minute drive of the clogged peaks of inner city surf spots. If you listen carefully you can almost hear the squeals of delight that yet another ‘unlocal’ has moved on. Little do they know that I just saw 3 carloads and one surf tour outfit of heading for their little hamlet.

As for the those baleful terms ‘local’ and ‘unlocal’, well perhaps it’s high time we realized the reason we pursue surfing with such passion is because it’s fun, and mutual respect in and out of the water determines whether we are deserving of a far more meaningful term - human being.